by Reena Daruwalla, guest writer for Nancy Hayssen.com

If I were to pick the one item in my wardrobe that is most comfortable, most flattering, most versatile, then I would pick the kurta or the kurti (the shorter, hip length version). I suppose the western equivalent of that would be a tunic. Now a kurta can be as form fitting or as loose as you want or it could just skim your curves, for a tantalizing hint of what is beneath. The length can vary from barely hip length to reaching up to mid calf length. This is the other Indian garment (other than the sari) that a unique appeal.

Known in the 60s and 70s as a symbol of the hippie movement, it is something that is always in fashion, albeit in different avatars as it evolves over the years.

This very adaptable garment can be teamed with loose or form fitting pajamas, jeans, trousers or skirts, tights, pretty much anything. The necklines vary from the demure to the daring: ranging from a mandarin collar to a round or V neckline. Some kurtis are interestingly equipped with a shoulder button opening. Sometimes kurtis can be completely plain with the only the buttons serving as embellishments. Kurtis usually have side slits which could be up to below the hips or higher up, to give a slight hint or glimpse of the waist.

Since it is such a popular item of clothing for Indian women, the Kurti has evolved a lot over the past few years but it has also retained a lot of its traditional appeal. Old fashioned embroidery and mirror work are still used for making kurtis today, which makes it a perfect fusion garment. I have this lovely V neck sleeveless kurti in red that is done up in mirror work and traditionally Gujarati embroidery which I love so much that I refuse to part with it even though it is a venerable 10 years old!

Kurtis used to be mainly made from cotton or silk but now designers use different fabrics to vary the drape, fall and look of the kurti. I think the West has yet to wake up to the allure of the kurti, or do I mean reawaken to its timeless allure.